The bathroom is one of the most frequently visited places in the house. Contrary to popular belief, the toilet is not the dirtiest place if it is properly cared for. But one of the unpleasant situations that can happen to it is a tank leak. This leads to the formation of plaque on the inner walls of the toilet, which is not so easy to remove. It also increases water supply costs, which can add up to a hefty sum over the course of a year. Therefore, it is important to know how to fix common problems. The article is precisely devoted to their elimination.

How the tank works

Before you repair something, you need to find out how the mechanism functions. This rule also applies to push-button toilets. It is important to understand how shut-off and storage valves work. The main task of the drain tank is to supply the required amount of liquid into the bowl for washing it. The material used to make the tank can be ceramic, plastic or metal. In some cases, stainless steel is used, which lasts a very long time. There are actually two mechanisms in the toilet cistern. One of them is responsible for ensuring that water flows into the tank itself from the supply system. Another system regulates the release of accumulated water into the toilet base.

When the water level in the tank reaches the required level, the supply is stopped due to the float switch. It rises to a certain height and blocks the hole from which the liquid flows. The flush mechanism on push-button toilets can be of two types. The first is called siphon. It is more often used in plastic containers with a button that protrudes above the lid. The essence of the operation is that when you press a button on the toilet cistern, a small vacuum is created. It causes the flow to move towards the bowl. The second type of mechanism is also called a pear. The essence of its functioning is that a small rubber bulb closes the drain hole. As soon as the key is pressed, the locking mechanism opens the hole slightly and the water flows out.

Additionally, an overflow mechanism is provided. If the water level in the tank exceeds the permissible level, excess water is discharged into the toilet. On most modern toilets you can see two buttons. One of them is slightly larger than the second. When pressed, different volumes of water are supplied, which allows you to save consumption while meeting different needs.

Common problems

Experience shows that tank failures concern the same components, so it is easy to distinguish several categories. They are:

• constant flow of water through the overflow;
• button failure;
• insufficient tightness of the shutter;
• tank distortion;

If the problem is discovered immediately after installing the toilet, then most likely an error was made during the process. If a leak or other malfunction is detected after several months of normal operation, then one of the components may have failed. Each of the special cases will be discussed below.

Continuous supply of water

Some users observe continuous and prolonged filling of the toilet tank, which is accompanied by water leakage. This indicates that the container is overfilled. One of the reasons for this problem may be a leaky gasket on the intake valve. If it bursts or loses its shape, then it is unable to firmly close the hole and filling occurs through it. The gasket may be in excellent condition, but the problem is still observed. The reason for a poor fit may lie in the curvature of the float support or its incorrect adjustment. If the float mounting bar is metal, then it may fail due to corrosion. The valve itself may also fail. This often happens when assembling products with plastic fittings. It is very easy to damage it by excessive force when tightening the nut.

How to fix

The first step is to carefully examine the external condition of the entire mechanism. To do this, carefully remove the lid. If we're talking about on modern toilets, then you may have to first unscrew the button that locks the lid in place. Now you need to slightly raise the rod on which the float is located. Usually a little effort is enough to do this. If after this the water stops filling the tank, then the problem is the incorrect position of the lever. To solve this situation, just bend the lever a little so that the float is lower. Most mechanisms have a special lever that allows you to do this.

If the leak does not stop after the above actions, you need to take a closer look at the place where the lever connects to the valve, which should close the inflow. The problem may be with the locking pin. If this is the case, then it is enough to replace it with ordinary copper wire. But she may be fine, so it makes sense to inspect the hole through which the influx occurs. Perhaps it is clogged and prevents the rod from closing it completely. If the structure is made of plastic, then deformation is possible, which bends the hole and the rod cannot move freely in it. If the deformation cannot be eliminated by loosening, then the valve will have to be replaced.

The cause of the leak may be a leaky gasket. This can be checked by pressing the rod harder against the hole. If the leak has stopped, then it makes sense to replace the gasket with a new one. In some versions of modern locking mechanisms, the valve is located in a plastic casing, so it cannot be easily inspected. This can be done by completely dismantling the unit. To test it according to the above scheme, just hold it over the tank with the hose connected.

Loosening Bolts

In modern toilets, the tank is located directly on the bowl; there is no pipe between them that connects them. The exception is those options in which the tank is mounted in a false wall. The tank is fixed to the bowl using bolts. Over time, they can weaken or fail due to rust. In this case, the tightness of the junction unit is broken, and water can leak onto the floor through the gap. Such a leak can be difficult to notice, because water flows out in small portions.

What to do with bolts

To resolve the issue that arises due to the bolts, you must first turn off the water supply. You should not immediately empty the tank; you need to carefully inspect the place where the leak is observed. After this, the tank is emptied and a complete set of bolts is purchased. There is no point in changing only one, because after a short time others may be damaged. The bolts are unscrewed. You should be extremely careful not to damage the bowl and tank, especially if they are made of ceramic. If the bolts are metal, then they can be pre-treated with a special compound that will remove rust and allow you to unscrew the nuts without much difficulty.

The head of the bolt is inside the tank, so you will have to remove the shutoff valve to get to them. You need to hold the head with one key to prevent it from turning. The tank is removed from its place and the junction unit is cleaned of rust. Carefully inspect the elastic band, if there is one. When assembling the tank, it is advisable to lubricate it silicone sealant. The rubber gaskets that are located under the bolt heads are also replaced with new ones. The tank must be positioned absolutely level so that no problems arise due to misalignment. The bolts are tightened with special care so that they do not split the toilet bowl and the tank itself.

Pay attention! The problem may not be in the bolts themselves that secure the tank to the toilet, but in the rubber seal that is located at the junction. Therefore, it is advisable to replace the rubber together with the bolts, and vice versa.

Stopper bulb

The shut-off valve that allows water to flow into the tank may be fine, but sometimes water still leaks out. The problem may lie in the bulb, which is located on the shut-off hole between the tank and the toilet bowl. Over time, exposure to water may cause the pear to lose its elasticity and become too hard. It is no longer able to take the shape of the hole and leakage occurs. It is not possible to restore such an element, so it is better to completely replace it. When buying, it is better to take one that has a little rigidity. It is she who will last in the tank longer than others. Usually the bulb has a thread, thanks to which it is screwed onto the stem. Sometimes it can be sold complete with a stem. If at the moment it is not possible to buy a bulb for the toilet tank, you can use a trick and tie a small weight to the rod, which will put pressure on it, increasing the area of ​​​​contact with the opening of the tank.

Pull, locking mechanism

One of the troubles that can arise with a modern toilet is that the flush key cannot be pressed. This is usually due to the fact that the traction is damaged. Often the locking mechanism itself fails. They cannot be restored, so you will have to replace part or all of the locking mechanism. Before you buy a ready-made one in a store, you need to know exactly which one was used, since there are many types. It is necessary to turn off the power to the toilet tank, drain the water from it and remove it by unscrewing the bolts. The supply hose is unscrewed, as well as the nut that secures the hose pipe. There is a plastic nut at the bottom of the tank that holds the locking mechanism in place. It must be unscrewed and all components of the locking mechanism removed.

It will serve as a sample for purchasing a similar one. It's better to take it with you to the store to check all the details. Often new mechanism may be a little longer than the previous one and will not fit into the tank. Some universal kits have special adjustment bars that make it possible to increase or decrease the distance from the release key to the base of the locking mechanism for the tank. When assembling, it is important to install all gaskets in their place and, if necessary, treat the joints with silicone.

Other possible breakdowns

The cause of a leak from the tank may be cracks in the body of the tank. They appear when used incorrectly. For example, you can push the cistern back a lot while sitting on the toilet. Damage occurs when the tank and toilet are tightly tightened with bolts. If such a problem occurs, then it is necessary to dismantle the tank, clean it well and dry it. After this, all cracks in the tank are sealed with high-quality sealant. After it hardens, you can install the container on the toilet. If the leak is no longer observed, then it can be used. The tank may need to be replaced.

The tank needs to be serviced periodically to ensure it lasts longer. It is important to regularly remove rust and plaque from it, which accumulate due to poor quality tap water. To do this, you can use special cleaning products. But you should be careful, because some of them have a negative effect on the rubber components of the locking mechanism. It is important that there are no sudden drops in temperature in the toilet room, during which the water in the tank and toilet will freeze. This can lead to damage not only to the mechanism, but also to the toilet bowl. For more tips on tank repair, watch the video below.

Conclusion

If in the process of repairing a tank with a button the entire mechanism needs to be replaced, then for premium toilets the price per set can reach 4 thousand rubles. You should be prepared for this when purchasing expensive plumbing fixtures. The article lists several main reasons that lead to leaks. Most often, you can eliminate them yourself using improvised means. When using wire for the tank, select samples made of non-ferrous metals, not steel. Since the latter will become an additional source of rust in the tank.

Modern plumbing fixtures are quite reliable equipment. But, like any technical devices, sooner or later may also fail. And often this happens at the most inopportune moment. For example, when you come home from work in the evening, you suddenly discover that the toilet tank is leaking.

What to do? It's too late to call a plumber. And usually there is no need, because most of the malfunctions that lead to tank leaks can be dealt with on your own, saving on the labor costs of a technician.

But first you need to carry out diagnostics and determine the causes of the problem. First of all, to do this, you need to remove the lid from the toilet's storage tank.

The most common modern design is the “compact”, which involves installing the tank directly on the toilet. Control mechanisms were initially produced in two types: a ball attached to a retractable rod attached to - a rubber plug that covers the drain hole and a lever located on the side of the container.

Today, almost all manufacturers have switched to producing push-button models of tanks. There are two main types of these modifications:

• with one button;
• with two buttons or one button divided into segments.

The second variation involves slightly more complex design valves for controlling drainage processes, but pays off quite quickly due to the possibility of choosing one of the modes:

• when you press one button, the tank is completely emptied;
• when the second is activated, it is partial, which allows you to significantly save on water consumption.

You can learn more about the principle of operation from the materials on our website.

How to open (remove the cover)?

Modifications are currently being made to allow the cover to be removed without any additional operations. The buttons are equipped with rods, transmitting force to the control elements of the tank fittings.

But most plumbing manufacturers continue to produce models that require some manipulations to remove the cover.

To remove the cover in one-button versions you need to apply moderate pressure on the ring surrounding the button and turn it in the direction opposite to the clockwise movement.

If this operation does not succeed immediately, you should drop a couple of drops of any liquid oil or use a screwdriver, pressing its tip onto the ring and turning it. Once the ring comes off, it can usually be easily unscrewed by hand.

Next, you should carefully move the cover to a position perpendicular to its normal position, and carefully release the button block from the plastic clothespins. After this you can remove the lid from the tank and set aside.

How to disassemble (open) a toilet cistern with a button for subsequent repairs with your own hands - learn from a short video:

To dismantle a cover equipped with a two-button block, it is usually just press any button, after which the technological groove on the adjacent button will become available. All that remains is to pick out this button and remove it, and then dismantle the second one. Then unscrew the fixing screw and remove the cover.

Basic breakdowns and repair methods

Before repairing a toilet with a button, it is important to figure out what exactly the problem is. Regardless of the type of toilet flush tank, There are three main problems with the operation of this plumbing equipment:

• into the sewer system or indoors;
• inability to control the drain mechanism.

These malfunctions can occur for various reasons, depending on which it is decided how to repair a toilet cistern with a button:

1. Loose fit of the bulb (plug) to the drain hole. You can minimize the likelihood of such a situation occurring by initially purchasing reliable plumbing fixtures from well-known manufacturers.
   

   Diagnostics is carried out as follows: after removing the cover, additional force is applied to the plug rod, pressing it against the drain hole. If the leak is fixed, the situation can be corrected by making the plug slightly heavier by hanging additional weight on the stem in the form of stainless metal nuts, for example.
   

   If the leak does not stop, you should replace the plug or clean the surface of the drain hole from deposits problems that arise during operation (especially when using too hard water).

2. It's also possible malfunction of the mechanism regulating the supply of water to the container. In this case, the constantly incoming water is discharged into the sewer system through the overflow pipe.
   

   In this case it is necessary pay attention to the integrity of the reinforcement structural elements: rods, fasteners, float, inlet valve and, if necessary, replace/repair them. Or simply adjust the position of the float, and then securely fix it.

3. Leaking indoors is caused by two reasons: violation of the integrity of the tank itself or a loose fit at the place of threaded connections - at the junction of the tank with the toilet or the outlet of the overflow tube.
   

   Sometimes it is enough to tighten a loose connection, but more often it appears need to replace rubber gaskets.

4. Lack or insufficient water pressure at the inlet to the tank usually caused by a clogged intake valve. To avoid this situation, it is necessary to install a water filter before the connection point to the water supply system.
   

   If such a problem occurs, you should unscrew the valve, first releasing all the water from the container and closing the inlet valve. After which clean the valve inlet a ton of wire or a sewing needle and rinse under running water.

Specific malfunctions of two-button models

To implement the principle of full/partial drainage, the fittings in two-button tank models are equipped with a diaphragm valve. When you press the economy flush button the lever prevents the valve cover from moving to the bottom position, which ensures partial emptying of the tank.

The main malfunctions of two-button tanks are:

1. Constant water flow. Occurs as a result of wear of the locking membrane. To fix this problem, you need to replace the membrane itself.
2. Recession of control buttons in the drain tank, which is the most common defect, usually appearing after a certain period of equipment operation due to wear and tear. To avoid this situation, do not use excessive force when pressing the buttons. You can fix the problem by removing the lid from the tank and returning the buttons to their normal position.
3. When the buttons are activated, nothing happens, that is, the water remains in the container. The cause of this problem is usually the breakdown of the elements of the lever mechanism or their separation. How to repair a flush tank with a button in this case? You can correct the situation by securing the hooks in the correct position or replacing broken parts.

How to regulate the water supply yourself?

The filling level of the toilet tank is regulated the same in all modifications - by installing correct position float. Its correct position is considered to be one in which the flow of water into the container completely stops upon reaching a level that is a few centimeters short of the edge of the tank.

Depending on the design of the fittings, adjustment is carried out by bending the brass rod, sliding the float along the plastic guide, followed by fastening (if it is horizontal) or rotating the adjusting screw clockwise (if necessary, reduce the filling level) or against (if you need to reduce the maximum level) - for modifications with a vertical float layout.

The filling level of the container is also influenced by overflow tube position. Its upper edge should be located one to two centimeters above the water level in a completely filled tank.

To adjust the height of the flush valve in single-button models of toilet tanks, after dismantling the control button and removing the cover, move the control rod to the desired position and then securely fasten it.

In two-button modifications there are two such rods. To adjust the flush cistern of a toilet with two buttons, remember that one is responsible for performing a complete flush, the second activates the partial flush mechanism.

How to adjust the flush tank with a button - watch the video:

How to put everything back?

To put the toilet tank back together, the following operations must be performed:

• secure the fittings responsible for filling/draining water, using rubber gaskets where necessary;
• adjust the position of the float and drain valve;
• cover the tank with a lid;
• screw the push-button glass (in models with one button) or tighten the fastening screw and latch the control buttons - in two-button versions.

As can be seen from the above, nothing complicated about self-installation, repair and adjustment of flush cisterns for toilets with a button no. And for most people with at least some technical skills, it will not be difficult to carry out these procedures on their own, saving on calling a plumber.

Have you discovered that your toilet flush tank is refusing to do its job? Agree that the toilet has long been one of the most necessary types of plumbing equipment for a comfortable human life, so its breakdown can hardly be called a joyful event. Do you want to repair the toilet cistern yourself, but don’t know where to start or where to look for the problem?

We will show you how to detect the source of trouble and fix it on your own - the article outlines ways to eliminate common malfunctions. The procedure for dealing with all common breakdowns is discussed in detail.

Repair tips are provided with photographs that will help you understand in detail the structure of the drain mechanism. To help the home handyman, video recommendations are provided for disassembling the tank, eliminating leaks and replacing fittings.

Before you start repairing equipment, you need to get acquainted with its structure and operating principle. The toilet itself consists of a bowl and a container filled with water. It is the container that is called the cistern.

The water in it enters the bowl, where it washes its contents into the sewer system. The drain system is activated by pressing a lever or button. This depends on the equipment model.

You can find drainage tanks on sale various types. There are several classifications of such equipment. Based on the location of the tank relative to the bowl, there are two main categories.

Completely separate designs. It is assumed that in this case the tank and bowl are separated. This is the very first existing toilet option. The height of the tank can have different modifications.

A high position assumes that the cistern is located a meter or more away from the bowl. The elements are connected to each other by a pipe. This option was relatively recently the most common.

Separate design with low-mounted tank. In this case, the water drainage mechanism can be not only lever

This is explained by the fact that the high location of the flush tank guarantees high speed and good pressure of water entering the flush. Today such models are used less frequently.

Modifications with a cistern hidden in the attic or under a false ceiling are popular.

Another variety - built-in tanks, which are equipped with wall-hung toilets. They are fixed in a special installation.

The low location of the tank suggests that it is mounted on the wall at a short distance from the bowl. They are connected by a short pipe. The drain fittings are located on the tank body.

Since the height from which the water drains is smaller, its speed and pressure are somewhat lower.

cistern compact toilets fits directly on the bowl. For this purpose it is equipped with a special shelf. Such models are very convenient to install and operate, but the water pressure and its speed during flushing are minimal.

Compacts are produced with tanks of trapezoidal and triangular shape. Such toilets are called corner toilets. They fit very well into the corners of rooms, it is especially convenient to install them in small bathrooms.

Monoblock toilets. The design is a toilet with a flush cistern built into the body. Such equipment is very easy to install. All you need to do is supply water and connect the device to the sewer.

This can be considered the main advantage of the candy bar. If serious damage occurs in any part of the monoblock, it most often has to be replaced, since the monolithic design most often prevents a full repair.

Read more about various types toilets can be read.

Design of various drain mechanisms

A water release mechanism is installed inside each drain tank.

Today there are several varieties of this design:

• Lever. It is a lever that, when pressed, activates the release of water into the bowl. Mounted in separate toilets, in tanks with an upper and lower location.
• Pneumatic. Trigger activated by pressing the button of the pneumatic chamber, which is connected to the exhaust valve using a flexible air duct.
• Stock. To open the drain valve, it is necessary to lift the vertical rod, which is located on the top of the tank lid.
• Push-button. The drainage mechanism in this model is started by pressing a button on the lid of the drain tank. There are two-button variations, in which one of the buttons is responsible for draining half of the tank, the second is responsible for draining all the water in the tank.

All tanks are filled with water strictly to a certain level, after which their filling automatically stops.

Depending on the method of supplying water to the tank, valves may be built-in different types. Floatless valves can be bottom or side.

In this case, the design contains a special chamber, in its own way appearance resembling an inverted glass.

The operating principle of the device is based on Archimedean force. It changes its value depending on the degree of filling of the tank and changes the position of the chamber that shuts off the water supply.

The side float valve is either a diaphragm or a piston type. In any case, it shuts off the water when a certain volume of liquid enters the tank.

All reinforcement can be presented as independent interchangeable elements or as a single structural set.

Toilet cistern with bottom water supply. The most trouble-free and silent option, therefore it is especially popular in city apartments

According to the type of connection of the water supply fittings, all drain tanks are divided into two groups.

• Lateral. The liner is connected on the right or left. The tank is usually equipped with two holes. The non-working part is covered with a special plug. The main disadvantages of such tanks are considered to be noise when filling the container with water and an unaesthetic connection to the water pipe, which cannot be disguised.
• Lower. The water supply pipe is connected from the bottom of the tank. This way you can hide the water fittings. In addition, when filling the container with water, minimal noise is created.

Each of the varieties cisterns finds its consumers and is used in various models of toilets.

Basic elements of a drain tank

Structurally, all variations of flush cisterns are designed approximately the same. Each of them has three main mechanisms.

Drain or shut-off valves designed to regulate the flow of water into the toilet bowl. Prevents liquid leakage from the reservoir.

During the process of filling the container, the water in it causes the shut-off valve to be pressed as tightly as possible against the drain hole, which prevents water from flowing into the bowl.

If there is constant water leakage, this may be due to a problem shut-off valve. Read more about shut-off valves read cistern drain.

filling valve combined with a water supply device. Designed to control the liquid level in the drain tank. Stops water supply as soon as it reaches a certain level.

To determine the amount of liquid in the tank, a float is used, connected by a rod to the filling valve.

Regardless of where the fill valve is located - the valve is on the side or below - the float is placed vertically in the tank. In older models - horizontally.

Overflow and drain mechanism represented by fittings equipped with a start button or lever. Designed to prevent water from overflowing from the tank if the float valve breaks.

The overflow system is connected to the drain; when you press the start button, it is activated. Excess water is discharged to the sewer. An important element of the mechanism is . Water leaks from the tank are most often associated with its functioning.

The float valve was ubiquitous in older models. The float rises along with the water arriving in the container and closes the valve at a certain level

You need to understand that all common malfunctions of the drain tank are associated with these mechanisms. And to eliminate the problems, it is these elements that will have to be replaced or adjusted.

If chips or cracks appear on the surface of the tank, it will most likely have to be repaired. Despite manufacturers' statements, most modern adhesives used for repairs cannot cope with this task.

Image gallery

Problem #4 - wear of internal fittings

It happens that several faults appear at once or the components are already very worn out. In this case, the easiest way would be to change the fittings - the insides of the toilet cistern. You should start by studying the structure of the tank.

As we already know, despite general principle works, drainage containers have a large number of modifications. We will consider in detail the replacement of the internal fittings of a drain tank with a bottom connection.

If the body of the drain tank is intact, but the “internals” do not work, the best way out is to completely replace the internal fittings

Before starting work, let's prepare pliers and wrenches. Next, we perform the following operations sequentially:

1. Shut off the water supply to the tank and drain the water from it.
2. Open the tank lid. If it has a button, then first dismantle it. Depending on the model, for this we will need to either unscrew it or remove special clips.
3. Disconnect the water supply hose.
4. We turn the upper part of the drain column at a right angle and remove it.
5. We find the mounting bolts holding the tank to the toilet and carefully unscrew them.
6. We put the tank on the toilet.
7. We find the fasteners securing the drain column and the inlet valve and unscrew them.
8. We take out the old fittings and prepare new ones.
9. We install everything in the reverse order and put the tank in place.

When installing a new drain column, you need to consider some points. The unit is installed above the outlet and fixed from below with a special threaded cuff.

The inlet valve, together with the mechanism that regulates the filling of the tank, is placed above the inlet, after which the assembly is fixed to the bottom of the tank with a threaded collar.

We can suggest that you familiarize yourself with other articles on the wear of cistern fittings:

Problem #5 - noise when filling the container

This is not a breakdown, since all mechanisms are functioning properly. However, filling the tank too loudly most often causes discomfort and you want the tank to be filled more quietly.

Tanks with top supply usually make noise. To solve this problem, you first need to inspect the inlet. There are models where you can adjust its diameter.

If filling the tank is too noisy, you need to reduce the cross-section of the hole. In this case, the water will flow more slowly, but annoying loud sounds will disappear.

Complete set of internal fittings for the cistern modern model can be purchased at any specialized plumbing store

If the hole diameter cannot be adjusted, you can try to slightly modify internal structure tank.

To do this, you need to find a rubber or plastic tube, the cross-section of which must correspond to the diameter of the inlet hole. The length of the part should be approximately 25-30 cm.

We put the tube on the inlet hole, secure it so that when water enters it does not rip off. Then we lower the second end of the part to the bottom of the tank. Actually, that's all.

Now water will flow into the tank through the tube, which will significantly reduce the unpleasant noise. The liquid will no longer fall under pressure from a height, but will go straight to the bottom of the tank.

Problem #6 - One or two buttons are stuck

This modification is very popular because it saves water. Sometimes her buttons start to stick. In this case, you must first remove the cap from the tank. For this purpose it overlaps water pipe, then the tank is emptied.

A flush tank with two buttons helps save water, so these models are preferred by those who watch their spending

If this is not the case, check the button shaft. If it is clogged, the parts will not fit into place. In this case, we clean the shaft and install the buttons. If this does not help, you may have to replace the entire assembly.

We carefully dismantle it, purchase a part from the store that has all the same characteristics and put it in place. The one-button model is also repaired.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

How to replace the cistern fittings:

Remove the lid from the drain tank with the button:

What to do if you find a leak in the drain valve:

Repairing a toilet flush tank is quite simple and accessible to anyone, even a novice plumber. There is nothing complicated about the repair work. Failures of components are very easy to diagnose.

If desired, you can quickly and efficiently repair the drain tank or, if the fittings are completely out of order, replace them with a new one.

Experts advise novice craftsmen who have problems with the tank body (for example, a crack has appeared) not to engage in cosmetic repairs, but to replace the entire tank. Most likely, all the efforts spent on repairs will be in vain, that is, time and money will be wasted.

If you have already encountered a broken toilet cistern, please share with our readers exactly what problem you encountered and how you managed to solve it. Also, in the comments block you can ask a question about the topic of the article.

A functioning bathroom is what is required for comfortable living in a house or apartment.

It is extremely unpleasant when the toilet breaks. If water constantly leaks, it is also costly. Water is paid according to the meter.

The product may not always be replaced.

In the case of a mechanical control system, you can repair the toilet cistern yourself. Before troubleshooting, you should decide on the type of drain and identify the cause of the breakdown.

Species

Cisterns

The devices differ in several design details.

Drain mechanisms

1. Lever. It is installed in separate products, where the tank can be located both above and below. Water drains into the toilet bowl when the lever is pressed.
2. Pneumatic. The water is drained after pressing the button of the pneumatic chamber.
3. Rod. The rod rises up, the mechanism clears the passage for liquid. The rod is always located on the tank lid.
4. Button. The drain mechanism operates by pressing a button located on the tank lid. Models with two drain buttons are available. When one button is pressed, half of the liquid is drained; when another is pressed, the entire reservoir is drained.

The reservoir is filled with liquid to the required level, after which the water supply automatically stops.

Valves

The type of valve depends on how the water is supplied to the tank.

Floatless systems come in bottom and side versions.

Such designs are equipped with a special camera. The system works according to Archimedes' law. The tank is filled with water and the location of the chamber changes, which stops the flow of liquid.

The side valve with float is manufactured in two versions: membrane and piston. In each option, filling the tank stops when a certain amount water.

The drain mechanism can consist of interchangeable parts or be a single set.

Connection type

• Side. The tank is equipped with two holes on each side. A flexible hose is connected to one of the walls, and a plug is placed in the second hole. The disadvantages of this liner are excessive noise when drawing water and lack of aesthetics.
• Bottom liner type. The hose for collecting liquid is mounted in the bottom of the tank. Filling is almost silent.

One model can be produced with two types of connection. Three mechanisms are present in each tank.

• Locking or drain mechanism. Regulates drainage and controls overflow.
• Bulk valve. The valve for filling the tank can be located either on the side or below. The float is always on top.
• Drain device and overflow.

The main failures of the toilet tank are always associated with these three devices.

FYI. Mechanical damage to the tank itself (cracks or chips) cannot be repaired. The product will have to be replaced.

Troubleshooting cistern

Water from the tank flows onto the floor

If dampness or a puddle of clean water appears behind the toilet, this indicates that the gasket installed between the tank and the toilet has become unusable and must be replaced.

To make a replacement, you will first need to purchase an O-ring. Then follow the instructions to fix the problem.

• Turn off the water supply to the toilet.
• Drain the water from the tank
• Disconnect the water supply hose
• Release the tank from the lid
• Remove the drain tank
• Replace gasket
• Reassemble in reverse order.

To increase the seal, you can use waterproof silicone.

Water is not delivered to the storage tank

This malfunction has several causes.

As soon as the water begins to flow freely, we install the valve, the valve with the lever and the float in its original position. Sometimes the valve cannot be cleaned, in which case it should be replaced.

Water constantly leaks into the bowl

• The reason is the incorrect operation of the float. It does not stop the flow of liquid, and it constantly flows through the overflow.
• The lever has changed position to inoperable
• The water supply valve is broken

If the design of the tank is from Soviet times, you should start identifying the fault with the float. Perhaps it burst, water flowed into it and it can no longer rise and stop the flow of water. If this is the reason, the part must be replaced.

Modern toilets have a flush column and do not have a float. This part cannot be repaired, simply replaced with a new one.

Water may leak due to a broken inlet valve.

• Check the lever next to the valve for mechanical damage.
• We empty the tank and watch how water fills
• You should move the lever. It closes the valve. If there is a bend, straighten the lever.
• The lever doesn't move. A jam has occurred. We are replacing the unit.

If the intake valve itself breaks down, it needs to be replaced. The part is dismantled, a similar one is purchased from the store and installed in the system.

The internal fittings have failed

Sometimes several faults occur simultaneously. The entire drain system should be replaced.

Replacing the drain mechanism with bottom water intake.

• Close the tap that supplies water to the tank and empty it of liquid.
• Remove the cover.
• Unscrew the flexible hose
• Turn the top of the column and remove it
• We dismantle the tank by first unscrewing the retaining bolts
• Remove the inlet valve and drain button
• We take out the old mechanism
• We install new fittings.
• We put the tank in its original position.

Loud noise when drawing water

This fact is not a malfunction. Top supply tanks are noisy.

Models are available where you can adjust the diameter of the hole. It won't get rid of the noise completely, but it will reduce its level.

If it is not possible to make adjustments, there is a modification option.

Take a rubber tube with an inlet diameter and a length of up to 30 cm.

The tube is placed over the inlet hole, fixed, and the end is lowered to the bottom of the tank.

This prevents water from falling from a height; filling begins from the bottom, which means the noise disappears.

A button or two buttons are stuck

A toilet model with two flush buttons is in demand. In this product, sometimes the buttons get stuck. To make repairs, you need to remove the cover.

First, the nuts holding the buttons are unscrewed, after which you can open the tank. Pressing the buttons at the same time sometimes helps them fall into place.

If the manipulation does not work, you should check the button shaft. Sometimes it gets clogged. After cleaning the shaft, repeat the check. If there is no result, a new part must be installed.

The unit is dismantled, exactly the same one is purchased and installed.

Results

If there is a malfunction, it is not always necessary to buy a new product; repairing it yourself is often very simple.

As long as the toilet tank works properly, we take it for granted. But any breakdown of this simple device is capable of creating serious problems. The continuous sound of flowing water prevents you from falling asleep. If you have a water meter installed, constantly leaking water from the tank will result in an increase in payment for cold water. The risk of flooding the neighbors living below you is also high. Fortunately, it’s not difficult. Anyone can fix the breakdown or at least temporarily localize the problem before the plumber arrives.

Features of breakdowns and repairs depend on the model of the drain tank. But there are also mechanisms common to all models. We will look at the most common models and the most common problems.

Important! Before you begin any repair work on the cistern, shut off the water flow through the inlet pipe.

1 type Water does not enter the tank

The most common cause of this problem is clogging of the narrowest part of the valve. To solve the problem, drain all the water from the tank and unscrew the valve along with the lever and float. You will see a narrow hole through which water enters the tank. Clean it with a needle or thin wire.

Slightly unscrew the valve on the inlet pipe and flush out any remaining clogs. If water flows freely, tighten the valve and install the valve with the lever and float back.

Type 2 Water flows all the time

Regardless of the model, the cistern is equipped with a system for accumulating and draining water. If your water does not fill the tank, flows into the toilet, or, having filled the tank, overflows over the top, problems have arisen in one of the components of this system.

Let's consider the problem when The bulb does not fit tightly enough to the drain hole. To solve this, you need to weigh down the pear, how to do this - watch the video:

Fixing a problem in a flush tank with a button

When you press the cistern button, water flows into the toilet bowl. The float, after releasing the water, sinks to the bottom. At this time, the valve that closes the hole for water inlet also lowers. Water enters the tank, the float gradually rises, moving the lever. Having risen to a certain height, the float with the lever takes a position when the valve tightly closes the opening of the pipe.

The cover with one button is removed in the following order:

• Unscrew retaining ring around the button. Don't press too hard - most rings are made of plastic and can break.
• Remove the cover and begin repairs.

Advice! Be extremely careful when removing the reservoir cap. If you damage it, it will be extremely difficult to buy a new one.

If water does not stop flowing into the tank, the cause may be one of two problems.

The flush mechanism with a button is the most common

If the bolts holding the pear saddle are damaged, they need to be replaced.

Water flows out of the tank through the overflow

The way to solve the problem will depend on the cause of its occurrence.

• If adjusting the float lever does not bring any results, check the integrity of the pin that holds it. Replace the damaged pin with copper wire of the same thickness. Do not use steel wire; it is susceptible to corrosion.
• If the pin hole in the plastic valve has changed from round to oval and is worn, remove the valve. Take it with you to the store as a reference for size and model, buy a new valve and install it.

Repair of a cistern with two buttons

Tanks with two buttons are produced so that two drain modes can be used - full and economical. The fittings in such tanks are equipped with a membrane drain valve. If you press the economy button, the lever does not allow the valve cap to go all the way down and some of the water is used.

Repair of a cistern with a bottom water supply

Most often, a side water supply to the cistern is used. But the pipe sticking out from the side does not look aesthetically pleasing. In order to hide the tubes, they use the method of bottom water supply. This method is justified if the area of ​​the room simply does not allow installing a tank with a side supply.

Important! With a bottom supply, check very carefully the reliability and tightness of the connections. Leaks in these places are the most common problem.

There are several problems typical for tanks with a bottom water supply:

• The pressure in the water supply system is too low and water constantly flows into the tank. This problem occurs if a diaphragm fill valve is installed. If the water pressure in the system is less than 0.05 MPa, it simply does not work. The best way out of the situation would be to replace membrane valve to a rod type, the operation of which does not depend on water pressure.
• The cause of problems with draining water or filling the tank may be due to incorrect position. None of its elements should touch the walls of the tank. Carefully inspect the mechanism and adjust its position.
• Water enters the toilet bowl through the overflow hole if the float is not adjusted correctly or the height of the float is not correct. Tighten the adjusting screw and lower the float.

In case of serious damage to the cistern, you must call a plumber. You may have to change all the trigger fittings. But at least for a while, you can fix most of the problems in this simple mechanism yourself.